ABI Peak

Peak ID ‘ABIM” as per the website; https://nepalhimalpeakprofile.org; Abi peak (also called Cholo or Kangsung Peak) having 6097m/20000ft elevation from the sea level is an attractive mountain to climb. Situated between the two famous valleys in the Everest Region; Everest B. C. and the Gokyo; therefore many high Himalayan expedition parties such as Mt. Everest expedition or Lhotse, Nuptse, Pumori etc consider this peak as the training peak for its slops and ridges on the summit-route require technical climbing and the entire climbing process helps to acclimatize.

Although this peak is famous among the mountaineers and the climbing hasn’t been done that often. Some unverified websites claim that the first ‘climbing permit’ was issued only in 2002 by the NMA. We’re not quite sure about that nor are there any other reliable sources for fact-checking. Anyway we; Alpine Exodus had the first climbing group on this peak in 2007; a group of duo veteran climbers from Spain who had successfully climbed in Sept in that year.

So, Alpine Exodus is one of the pioneers on this peak climbing organizing.

Getting in there to its Base Camp is not difficult and often combined with the Everest Base Camp trek that requires __ 2 weeks time for the complete trip. And after the climbing, return to Namche-Lukla through the Gokyo Lake route will be a complete itinerary.

From Thagna or Dragnak to the Abi peak base camp is 4-5hrs journey to the north. Base camp is set at 5290m and high camp isn’t really require, yet the summit day will be a long tiring hiking which makes to arrive to Thangna after the summit.